E-mail: atschernych@yandex.ru Tel.: +7 (3422) 212-70-19
13a, Lenina str., Perm, 614090, Russian Federation
PhD in History, corresponding member of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Director of the Institute of Humanitarian Research, Perm Federal Research Center, Ural Branch, Russian Academy
of Sciences
The study was carried out within the framework of the Russian Science Foundation grant No. 25-18-00467 “Ethnicity and strategies of ethnic communities in the national policy of the Urals in the 20th–21st centuries”
This article examines the distinctiveness of the traditional dress of Roma belonging to the Russian ethnographic group Kelderari, based on field material. It mostly considers women’s clothing and analyzes the composition of the overall costume, its special cut, and the combination of garments in holiday, wedding, and everyday clothing. The article describes the changes in Roma clothing in the twentieth century as well as the current state of traditional dress; it also considers the ideas connected to the individual items of clothing. The author has determined that the basis of the costume of the Roma Kelderari of Russia was formed on the territory of southeastern Europe and transferred to Russia as a result of migration. Men’s clothing lost its traditional ethnic coloring much earlier than women’s did, by the middle of the twentieth century. Since that time, changes in women’s clothing have been primarily associated with the adaptation of Roma dress to accepted urban forms of dress and trends in Roma fashion. The most stable thing about Roma women’s clothing is its unity, including the obligatory items of clothing--shirt, skirt, and apron; and it generally preserves the suppleness of the cut, the colors and ornamental preferences, and choice of material.
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